I was actually a passenger in a car that was having an active oil leak. The driver knew what was happening, and was warned to pull to the side of the road and call a tow truck, but she wanted to try to make it home. Unfortunately, she didn't. The engine seized up, never to run again. What a foolish and costly mistake.
The simple fact is that the engine in your car cannot run without lubrication from oil. Heat and friction would, as illustrated in the case above, cause the engine to come to a full halt.
When I bought a new car many years ago and took it in for it's first oil change the mechanic said to me that if I kept the oil changed I'd get 200,000 miles out of the engine. He was right. I faithfully changed the oil every 3,000 miles and at 189,000 miles had to say goodbye to my faithful friend, not due to engine trouble, but due to a rusting frame. He also noticed that the oil filter that was on my vehicle from the manufacturer was larger than actually called for. He said this wasn't a bad idea. A larger amount of oil meant more flowing through the engine cooling and lubricating and cleaning the engine. When I started to change the oil myself I kept on using the larger oil filter.
Most new cars today don't call for their oil to be changed quite as often as every 3,000 miles. Generally it's 5,000 and some even more. I like to have the oil in my car changed at least every 5,000 miles. That oil change is actually more than an oil change. The technician gets to give your car a once over, checking belts and hoses and other vital fluids. Generally we don't even think about these things. It's much easier to change a worn belt while your car is in the shop than be broken down on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck.
The simple act of changing the oil in your car may be the best thing you can do to protect your car, and your investment in it.
About the author: This article courtesy of http://www.porsche-monster.com
Friday, June 15, 2007
Thursday, June 14, 2007
An Explanation of Defensive Driving
Defensive driving is defined as being able to operate a motor vehicle with the skills to avoid an accident in a situation where one could possibly occur.
Defensive driving is based on the premise that you, the driver, are actually a very good and safe driver that must be alert and able to react to the dangerous driving that others are engaging in.
Defensive driving utilizes advanced skills and awareness not initially taught to new drivers. The goal of one taking a defensive driving class is to become a proactive driver, in order to avoid dangerous road situations or the poor conduct of other drivers. Specific techniques and basic rules are used to achieve a safer driving experience.
Defensive driving courses are taught across the United States, as well as other countries. Defensive driving schools are sometimes referred to as traffic schools, depending upon the regional area.
In Texas, the term "defensive driving course" is used, while in New York they tend to use the term "traffic school." Anybody can take defensive driving courses to brush up on skills or to qualify for discounts on car insurance premiums.
Most often, individuals are referred to defensive driving courses after being ticketed for a moving violation or having been in an accident. Depending upon the laws of the municipality, the documented completion of a defensive driving course can allow for a dismissal of the ticket.
About the author: Defensive Driving Info provides detailed information about defensive driving online, and defensive driving courses and schools in Texas, New York, Washington, D.C., and other locations. Defensive Driving Info is the sister site of Radar Detectors Web.
Defensive driving is based on the premise that you, the driver, are actually a very good and safe driver that must be alert and able to react to the dangerous driving that others are engaging in.
Defensive driving utilizes advanced skills and awareness not initially taught to new drivers. The goal of one taking a defensive driving class is to become a proactive driver, in order to avoid dangerous road situations or the poor conduct of other drivers. Specific techniques and basic rules are used to achieve a safer driving experience.
Defensive driving courses are taught across the United States, as well as other countries. Defensive driving schools are sometimes referred to as traffic schools, depending upon the regional area.
In Texas, the term "defensive driving course" is used, while in New York they tend to use the term "traffic school." Anybody can take defensive driving courses to brush up on skills or to qualify for discounts on car insurance premiums.
Most often, individuals are referred to defensive driving courses after being ticketed for a moving violation or having been in an accident. Depending upon the laws of the municipality, the documented completion of a defensive driving course can allow for a dismissal of the ticket.
About the author: Defensive Driving Info provides detailed information about defensive driving online, and defensive driving courses and schools in Texas, New York, Washington, D.C., and other locations. Defensive Driving Info is the sister site of Radar Detectors Web.
Do More than Just Light Up Your Rear
Driving during the stark of night could prove to be not a danger for you if your vehicle has been properly equipped with lights. And the use of lights is not only restricted to driving during the night, but also during bad weather, cloudy days, strong storms, and foggy afternoons. Most of the industrialized world is lit by electric lights, and vehicles are included. Lights are more or less used both during the night time and also during the day time if the need arises. These lights normally get their power through the electric grid, and also through your vehicle's battery which has power stored in it.
Installed all around your vehicle, and also installed inside your automobile, lights are put in not just for show and additional glamour but they are installed there to serve an important purpose: keep drivers, passengers, and those who come in contact with vehicles safe. Lights located inside the vehicle help out in the proper visibility of the vehicle's control buttons that are pretty much needed during driving. Moreover, the lights that are installed outside the vehicle's body - those that are noticed mostly by people - are kept there to also provide safety especially during dire times when the weather seems to take on great fury on all the land.
Some of the lights that are installed on vehicles include headlights, fog lights, projector headlights, and clear corners. They provide a higher range of visibility for the driver so as to provide an efficient and safe drive. Also part of the lights line up are the tail lights that could be found at the rear of the vehicle. These kinds of lights do not only provide visible for your automobile, but it also takes on specific kinds of tasks when interfaced with the vehicle's turn signals. One kind of tail lights is the altezza lights.
The altezza tail lights derived its name from the Toyota Altezza, a compact luxury sporting vehicle from Toyota. This vehicle is also known as the Lexus IS 200 and the Lexus IS 300, and has the BMW 3-series and Nissan Skyline and Infiniti G as its main rivals. This term, altezza, is generally used for the clear rear automobile tail lamps that quite resembles those lights found on the Toyota Altezza. Altezza lights are attractively crafted tail lights that not only provide light but also serve as accessories for the vehicle. They are customized and could be installed in your vehicle to exude a more attractive and elegant fa硤e. These lights are also known as euro tail lights, euro altezza tail lights, and altezza euro tail lights for the very reason that the name was derived from the Altezza vehicle, and that it provides vehicles an artistic Euro look.
Auto Parts Discount regularly updates its complete catalog for a regular supply of any replacement parts. Included in its list of lights are fog lights, headlights and the altezza lights to light up a vehicle's rear and add a unique kind of look.
Installed all around your vehicle, and also installed inside your automobile, lights are put in not just for show and additional glamour but they are installed there to serve an important purpose: keep drivers, passengers, and those who come in contact with vehicles safe. Lights located inside the vehicle help out in the proper visibility of the vehicle's control buttons that are pretty much needed during driving. Moreover, the lights that are installed outside the vehicle's body - those that are noticed mostly by people - are kept there to also provide safety especially during dire times when the weather seems to take on great fury on all the land.
Some of the lights that are installed on vehicles include headlights, fog lights, projector headlights, and clear corners. They provide a higher range of visibility for the driver so as to provide an efficient and safe drive. Also part of the lights line up are the tail lights that could be found at the rear of the vehicle. These kinds of lights do not only provide visible for your automobile, but it also takes on specific kinds of tasks when interfaced with the vehicle's turn signals. One kind of tail lights is the altezza lights.
The altezza tail lights derived its name from the Toyota Altezza, a compact luxury sporting vehicle from Toyota. This vehicle is also known as the Lexus IS 200 and the Lexus IS 300, and has the BMW 3-series and Nissan Skyline and Infiniti G as its main rivals. This term, altezza, is generally used for the clear rear automobile tail lamps that quite resembles those lights found on the Toyota Altezza. Altezza lights are attractively crafted tail lights that not only provide light but also serve as accessories for the vehicle. They are customized and could be installed in your vehicle to exude a more attractive and elegant fa硤e. These lights are also known as euro tail lights, euro altezza tail lights, and altezza euro tail lights for the very reason that the name was derived from the Altezza vehicle, and that it provides vehicles an artistic Euro look.
Auto Parts Discount regularly updates its complete catalog for a regular supply of any replacement parts. Included in its list of lights are fog lights, headlights and the altezza lights to light up a vehicle's rear and add a unique kind of look.
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
How to Start Your Search for the Perfect SUV Accessory
You finally did it. You went out and bought the SUV that you have always wanted. So now, you can see over the cars next to you at the intersection and you don't really have to worry about the idiot in lane next to you on the cell phone, after all, you can roll right over him. Now what? You want to personalize your SUV, make it reflect who you are, right? Right, you need SUV accessories. There are so many to choose from, where should you start?
1- Price is often a first consideration for many SUV owners. Quality is the second. These are the reasons that the internet is a good place to start looking for SUV accessories; there are so many sites and products to choose from. Consumers today are much more conscience when it comes to getting what you pay for, or even, getting more than what you pay for. Owners of SUV's are just like anyone else, they like to get a good product at a great price. The competition is so fierce that most sites will offer free shipping or deep discounts to win your business.
2- Companies that specialize in aftermarket add on parts are a great way to get your hands on the actual part that will be installed on your vehicle before you actually purchase it. SUV owners are also very fussy about the accessories that they choose to add to their vehicles. What ever is being replaced needs to be perfect For example, if you are looking for a set of running boards for your truck, you probably know pretty much what you want them to look like installed even before you begin your search. This is true not only for something that stands out, like running boards, but also for smaller items such as custom knob covers for the interior of the vehicle.
3- The dealership where you originally purchased you SUV is also an excellent source for quality aftermarket accessories. Dealers tend to be more expensive than some other sources of parts, and they may offer a more limited selection, however, the parts they do handle will be genuine accessories for your particular SUV. If they don't handle these types of products, they can give you the name of a reputable accessory dealer in your area.
4- Swap meets can be a fun, unconventional way to get the parts you are looking for. This is especially true if you are searching for an accessory that is hard to find or that is no longer being made. A swap meet allows you to see the part and get some of its history before you buy, since the part will most likely be used, this information can be important in your decision.
5- If you are the more adventurous type of buyer, you might want to try online auctions. Online auctions allow you to do business with people from all over the globe. There are many auction sites, with out a doubt; you will be able to find the part you are seeking. The biggest draw backs to buying from an online auction is the gamble that is involved (that may also be a lot of the allure as well), unfortunately you never really know if the person on the other end of the computer is trustworthy until you receive your part in the condition it was described. Fortunately, most online auction participants are trustworthy and understand that that is why they have customers.
1- Price is often a first consideration for many SUV owners. Quality is the second. These are the reasons that the internet is a good place to start looking for SUV accessories; there are so many sites and products to choose from. Consumers today are much more conscience when it comes to getting what you pay for, or even, getting more than what you pay for. Owners of SUV's are just like anyone else, they like to get a good product at a great price. The competition is so fierce that most sites will offer free shipping or deep discounts to win your business.
2- Companies that specialize in aftermarket add on parts are a great way to get your hands on the actual part that will be installed on your vehicle before you actually purchase it. SUV owners are also very fussy about the accessories that they choose to add to their vehicles. What ever is being replaced needs to be perfect For example, if you are looking for a set of running boards for your truck, you probably know pretty much what you want them to look like installed even before you begin your search. This is true not only for something that stands out, like running boards, but also for smaller items such as custom knob covers for the interior of the vehicle.
3- The dealership where you originally purchased you SUV is also an excellent source for quality aftermarket accessories. Dealers tend to be more expensive than some other sources of parts, and they may offer a more limited selection, however, the parts they do handle will be genuine accessories for your particular SUV. If they don't handle these types of products, they can give you the name of a reputable accessory dealer in your area.
4- Swap meets can be a fun, unconventional way to get the parts you are looking for. This is especially true if you are searching for an accessory that is hard to find or that is no longer being made. A swap meet allows you to see the part and get some of its history before you buy, since the part will most likely be used, this information can be important in your decision.
5- If you are the more adventurous type of buyer, you might want to try online auctions. Online auctions allow you to do business with people from all over the globe. There are many auction sites, with out a doubt; you will be able to find the part you are seeking. The biggest draw backs to buying from an online auction is the gamble that is involved (that may also be a lot of the allure as well), unfortunately you never really know if the person on the other end of the computer is trustworthy until you receive your part in the condition it was described. Fortunately, most online auction participants are trustworthy and understand that that is why they have customers.
How to Start Your Search for the Perfect SUV Accessory
You finally did it. You went out and bought the SUV that you have always wanted. So now, you can see over the cars next to you at the intersection and you don't really have to worry about the idiot in lane next to you on the cell phone, after all, you can roll right over him. Now what? You want to personalize your SUV, make it reflect who you are, right? Right, you need SUV accessories. There are so many to choose from, where should you start?
1- Price is often a first consideration for many SUV owners. Quality is the second. These are the reasons that the internet is a good place to start looking for SUV accessories; there are so many sites and products to choose from. Consumers today are much more conscience when it comes to getting what you pay for, or even, getting more than what you pay for. Owners of SUV's are just like anyone else, they like to get a good product at a great price. The competition is so fierce that most sites will offer free shipping or deep discounts to win your business.
2- Companies that specialize in aftermarket add on parts are a great way to get your hands on the actual part that will be installed on your vehicle before you actually purchase it. SUV owners are also very fussy about the accessories that they choose to add to their vehicles. What ever is being replaced needs to be perfect For example, if you are looking for a set of running boards for your truck, you probably know pretty much what you want them to look like installed even before you begin your search. This is true not only for something that stands out, like running boards, but also for smaller items such as custom knob covers for the interior of the vehicle.
3- The dealership where you originally purchased you SUV is also an excellent source for quality aftermarket accessories. Dealers tend to be more expensive than some other sources of parts, and they may offer a more limited selection, however, the parts they do handle will be genuine accessories for your particular SUV. If they don't handle these types of products, they can give you the name of a reputable accessory dealer in your area.
4- Swap meets can be a fun, unconventional way to get the parts you are looking for. This is especially true if you are searching for an accessory that is hard to find or that is no longer being made. A swap meet allows you to see the part and get some of its history before you buy, since the part will most likely be used, this information can be important in your decision.
5- If you are the more adventurous type of buyer, you might want to try online auctions. Online auctions allow you to do business with people from all over the globe. There are many auction sites, with out a doubt; you will be able to find the part you are seeking. The biggest draw backs to buying from an online auction is the gamble that is involved (that may also be a lot of the allure as well), unfortunately you never really know if the person on the other end of the computer is trustworthy until you receive your part in the condition it was described. Fortunately, most online auction participants are trustworthy and understand that that is why they have customers.
1- Price is often a first consideration for many SUV owners. Quality is the second. These are the reasons that the internet is a good place to start looking for SUV accessories; there are so many sites and products to choose from. Consumers today are much more conscience when it comes to getting what you pay for, or even, getting more than what you pay for. Owners of SUV's are just like anyone else, they like to get a good product at a great price. The competition is so fierce that most sites will offer free shipping or deep discounts to win your business.
2- Companies that specialize in aftermarket add on parts are a great way to get your hands on the actual part that will be installed on your vehicle before you actually purchase it. SUV owners are also very fussy about the accessories that they choose to add to their vehicles. What ever is being replaced needs to be perfect For example, if you are looking for a set of running boards for your truck, you probably know pretty much what you want them to look like installed even before you begin your search. This is true not only for something that stands out, like running boards, but also for smaller items such as custom knob covers for the interior of the vehicle.
3- The dealership where you originally purchased you SUV is also an excellent source for quality aftermarket accessories. Dealers tend to be more expensive than some other sources of parts, and they may offer a more limited selection, however, the parts they do handle will be genuine accessories for your particular SUV. If they don't handle these types of products, they can give you the name of a reputable accessory dealer in your area.
4- Swap meets can be a fun, unconventional way to get the parts you are looking for. This is especially true if you are searching for an accessory that is hard to find or that is no longer being made. A swap meet allows you to see the part and get some of its history before you buy, since the part will most likely be used, this information can be important in your decision.
5- If you are the more adventurous type of buyer, you might want to try online auctions. Online auctions allow you to do business with people from all over the globe. There are many auction sites, with out a doubt; you will be able to find the part you are seeking. The biggest draw backs to buying from an online auction is the gamble that is involved (that may also be a lot of the allure as well), unfortunately you never really know if the person on the other end of the computer is trustworthy until you receive your part in the condition it was described. Fortunately, most online auction participants are trustworthy and understand that that is why they have customers.
What to do when a hot engine is hard to start
Although usually engines exposed to cold weather is the most known problem related to car starting difficulties, hot engines might bring obstacles as well. Many people realize that the car do not start as easily as it should when the engine is hot and do not know what to do about it. In order to be able to overcome this problem, it is important to start by learning why it happens.
Most of the reasons by which a hot engine would be hard to start are based on problems related to the fuel. When the engine is too hot, fuel can't circulate properly due to the way in which vapor obstructs it and therefore the engine wouldn't start as easily as it should or it wouldn't start at all.
A car engine would keep on gaining temperature until a while after it was shut off. During this period of time is when the highest amount of vapor would be circulating around and therefore that is when the chances it obstructs the engine are bigger as well. This way, if you are driving in hot weather and you have just turned off the car in which you experience start problems, you should wait for a few minutes until starting it back.
Fuel injected engines do not experience this problem as much as others do due to the fact that the fuel remains inside the injectors by being under a very high pressure. This way, fuel injected engines would not become so easily obtruded by vapors as other engines would and therefore the car would not have the same problems to start as another would.
Also, engines might become hard to start while being hot if it coincides with the season in which refiners change from a fuel blend to another. Sometimes gasoline refiners change from a higher volatility fuel to a lower one when summer approaches due to the way in which hot weather causes fuel to evaporate easier. If refiners change back to a higher volatility fuel while the engine is still exposed to days of high temperatures, this could cause the fuel to evaporate too much creating too much vapor and therefore obtruding the engine.
About the author: Jakob Jelling is the founder of http://www.autorized.com. Please visit his website to learn about auto maintenance, auto insurance, auto safety and much more
Most of the reasons by which a hot engine would be hard to start are based on problems related to the fuel. When the engine is too hot, fuel can't circulate properly due to the way in which vapor obstructs it and therefore the engine wouldn't start as easily as it should or it wouldn't start at all.
A car engine would keep on gaining temperature until a while after it was shut off. During this period of time is when the highest amount of vapor would be circulating around and therefore that is when the chances it obstructs the engine are bigger as well. This way, if you are driving in hot weather and you have just turned off the car in which you experience start problems, you should wait for a few minutes until starting it back.
Fuel injected engines do not experience this problem as much as others do due to the fact that the fuel remains inside the injectors by being under a very high pressure. This way, fuel injected engines would not become so easily obtruded by vapors as other engines would and therefore the car would not have the same problems to start as another would.
Also, engines might become hard to start while being hot if it coincides with the season in which refiners change from a fuel blend to another. Sometimes gasoline refiners change from a higher volatility fuel to a lower one when summer approaches due to the way in which hot weather causes fuel to evaporate easier. If refiners change back to a higher volatility fuel while the engine is still exposed to days of high temperatures, this could cause the fuel to evaporate too much creating too much vapor and therefore obtruding the engine.
About the author: Jakob Jelling is the founder of http://www.autorized.com. Please visit his website to learn about auto maintenance, auto insurance, auto safety and much more
Financing Your Car -- What You Should Know
Buying a new car is the dream of many Americans; as a result many are sold each year, that is after financing is obtained in order to pay for them. While you might think going and picking out a car and then receiving on the spot financing is relatively easy it is not always so. Before you head to your local dealership to buy the car of your dreams, consider these tips on automobile financing.
Tip #1 Credit Score Your credit score has everything to do with whether or not you receive automobile financing as well as the interest rates and down payment requirements you will receive. Because of this it is incredibly important for you to know your credit score before you ever head to the dealership. If your credit score is above 600 then you should be able to get financing without too much trouble, however if your score is below 600 you should spend a few months lowering your bills and focusing on increasing your credit score so you can not only qualify for financing, but also for a great interest rate in order to buy that new car.
Tip #2 Compare Rates Different lending institutions from banks, online lenders and the dealership will be able to finance your vehicle. However, each of them is likely to have different interest rates, fee structures, and general requirements for you to meet. As a result, you should evaluate as many financing options as possible in order to find the best deal for you. Because, when it comes down to it, you don't want to pay a single cent more than you have to for your car financing needs.
Tip #3 Get Pre-Approved If there is any way you can get pre-approved for auto financing then you should do so. The reason for this is when you are pre-approved and head to the dealership you will be able to negotiate as if you had cash in hand. This will allow you to qualify for all the rebates and discounts the dealership might be offering and you can negotiate the price of the vehicle down as well.
Following these tips will help you get the best financing available to you considering your personal credit score and financial situation, not to mention the car of your dreams. So follow these tips, save money and finally put that new car in your driveway.
Tip #1 Credit Score Your credit score has everything to do with whether or not you receive automobile financing as well as the interest rates and down payment requirements you will receive. Because of this it is incredibly important for you to know your credit score before you ever head to the dealership. If your credit score is above 600 then you should be able to get financing without too much trouble, however if your score is below 600 you should spend a few months lowering your bills and focusing on increasing your credit score so you can not only qualify for financing, but also for a great interest rate in order to buy that new car.
Tip #2 Compare Rates Different lending institutions from banks, online lenders and the dealership will be able to finance your vehicle. However, each of them is likely to have different interest rates, fee structures, and general requirements for you to meet. As a result, you should evaluate as many financing options as possible in order to find the best deal for you. Because, when it comes down to it, you don't want to pay a single cent more than you have to for your car financing needs.
Tip #3 Get Pre-Approved If there is any way you can get pre-approved for auto financing then you should do so. The reason for this is when you are pre-approved and head to the dealership you will be able to negotiate as if you had cash in hand. This will allow you to qualify for all the rebates and discounts the dealership might be offering and you can negotiate the price of the vehicle down as well.
Following these tips will help you get the best financing available to you considering your personal credit score and financial situation, not to mention the car of your dreams. So follow these tips, save money and finally put that new car in your driveway.
Thursday, June 7, 2007
The Guide To Better Car Buying Deals
Buying a car is like making a journey into the unknown especially if you do not know the meaning of mileage and the only seats you have sat on inside a car are the ones for the passengers. Without a map, one can get lost, confused by several choices and generally duped into accepting a less than great a deal.
Still like any journey, with the right guide to buying a car, one can breeze through the experience with flying colors. Below is a guide to getting better car buying deals not only in terms of getting high quality cars but also in being aware of rebates and discounts. Both online and offline transactions were mentioned and discussed as some people are already doing their shopping online.
Read on and see for yourself which car buying guide you already know and which one you just heard for the very first time.
Car buying guide #1: List your requirements and stick to it.
Knowing what you need and what you want already takes you halfway the decision-making process. List your requirements and search for a perfect match out of the hundreds of car models available. You can do this in the old fashion way by visiting the car dealers near your area or the new age way through the wonders of the World Wide Web. One car buying guide which you should remember is to never go to dealers without having a car in mind. Websites like CarDirect.com has a handy research tool that can help you refine your search
Car buying guide #2: Have a budget and stick to it.
When you have already decided on your car model, you can now look into the prices being offered by various car dealers. One car buying guide that is really important is to do price comparisons, which are available online at InvoiceDealers.com or CarsDirect. You can also ask advice from people who have bought cars in the last five years. Chances are, car dealers still have the same practices.
Car buying guide #3: Be on the look out for special sales and promos
Most car dealers and even websites will always come up with a promo or a special deal guaranteed to outsell the competition. You can also leave your contact details and ask the car dealers that you have visited to inform you of upcoming promos. That way, you will stay up to date and would be able to compare different deals offered by different companies. One can also try looking for great deals over the Internet.
Car buying guide #4: Buy at the right season
One car buying guide that is a sure hit is perfecting the timing of buying a car. Usually, car dealers go on sale by the end of December as there is low demand for expensive gadgets. Because of the Christmas shopping rush, few actually buy a car at this period of time. Another great time is on July to October where new models have to replace the new. Sometimes, car manufacturers even offer big discounts just to be rid of the stock.
Car buying guide #5: Beware of Add-ons
Some dealers would put add-on services that you do not really need until the price skyrockets. Beware of these add-ons and really determine if that is something that you would like for your car.
------------------------- Note: This article may be freely reproduced as long as the AUTHOR'S resource box at the bottom of this article is included and and all links must be Active/Linkable with no syntax changes. -------------------------
About the author: John G. Nuble 2005. For up to date links and information about car buying, please go to: http://car-buying-guide.us/
Still like any journey, with the right guide to buying a car, one can breeze through the experience with flying colors. Below is a guide to getting better car buying deals not only in terms of getting high quality cars but also in being aware of rebates and discounts. Both online and offline transactions were mentioned and discussed as some people are already doing their shopping online.
Read on and see for yourself which car buying guide you already know and which one you just heard for the very first time.
Car buying guide #1: List your requirements and stick to it.
Knowing what you need and what you want already takes you halfway the decision-making process. List your requirements and search for a perfect match out of the hundreds of car models available. You can do this in the old fashion way by visiting the car dealers near your area or the new age way through the wonders of the World Wide Web. One car buying guide which you should remember is to never go to dealers without having a car in mind. Websites like CarDirect.com has a handy research tool that can help you refine your search
Car buying guide #2: Have a budget and stick to it.
When you have already decided on your car model, you can now look into the prices being offered by various car dealers. One car buying guide that is really important is to do price comparisons, which are available online at InvoiceDealers.com or CarsDirect. You can also ask advice from people who have bought cars in the last five years. Chances are, car dealers still have the same practices.
Car buying guide #3: Be on the look out for special sales and promos
Most car dealers and even websites will always come up with a promo or a special deal guaranteed to outsell the competition. You can also leave your contact details and ask the car dealers that you have visited to inform you of upcoming promos. That way, you will stay up to date and would be able to compare different deals offered by different companies. One can also try looking for great deals over the Internet.
Car buying guide #4: Buy at the right season
One car buying guide that is a sure hit is perfecting the timing of buying a car. Usually, car dealers go on sale by the end of December as there is low demand for expensive gadgets. Because of the Christmas shopping rush, few actually buy a car at this period of time. Another great time is on July to October where new models have to replace the new. Sometimes, car manufacturers even offer big discounts just to be rid of the stock.
Car buying guide #5: Beware of Add-ons
Some dealers would put add-on services that you do not really need until the price skyrockets. Beware of these add-ons and really determine if that is something that you would like for your car.
------------------------- Note: This article may be freely reproduced as long as the AUTHOR'S resource box at the bottom of this article is included and and all links must be Active/Linkable with no syntax changes. -------------------------
About the author: John G. Nuble 2005. For up to date links and information about car buying, please go to: http://car-buying-guide.us/
Friday, April 13, 2007
Engine oil change
Engine oil has limited life - after a certain point it starts losing lubricating qualities and carbonizes. Once it happens, the engine gets contaminated with carbon deposits or sludge (see the pic.) that significantly shorten engine's life. When you change oil at or before manufacturer suggested interval, you change the oil before this "carbonizing" point, engine remains clean and once refilled with new oil ready to work hard again. If the engine oil has not been changed for long, carbon deposits start clogging the oil pick-up screen decreasing oil supply and increasing friction. Through the engine ventilation system the same carbon deposits build up inside the throttle body and EGR system causing rough idle and possible check engine light. Compression decreases and engine start wearing much faster. If you don't remember when you changed the oil in your car last time - just check the oil on the dipstick. And every time you change the oil, the oil filter should be replaced as well.Check the engine oil regularly, I'd recommend at least once a month or even more often if the car has high mileage.If you note, that oil pressure gauge indicates extremely low oil pressure - have your engine inspected as soon as possible. - While checking the oil level, look at its condition. Check the image at the left. If the oil is black like on the right image, I'd suggest to change it. - Always use only appropriate engine oil type (usually you can find it on oil cap or in the owners manual). - Check your parking space for leaks. If you find any, fix it before it results in more serious vehicle problem
The advantage of synthetic oil is that it can withstand higher temperature and can work longer without losing its lubricating qualities. It doesn't get thicker at below-zero temperatures providing good engine lubrication at a cold start. However, since it's more "thinner" a high-mileage engine filled with synthetic oil will more likely to develop leaks and you will more likely to hear lifters tapping noise at a start. Therefore, If you have low mileage or turbo engine and driving under heavy conditions such as high temperature, excessive load, long intervals without an oil change, etc., or simply want to provide extra protection for your engine, synthetic oil may be a good solution. But I don't think it's worth to use synthetic oil in high-mileage engines - thicker mineral oil will provide better protection as long as you change it regularly.
The best schedule to change engine oil is accordingly to owners manual instruction or mechanics advise.
The advantage of synthetic oil is that it can withstand higher temperature and can work longer without losing its lubricating qualities. It doesn't get thicker at below-zero temperatures providing good engine lubrication at a cold start. However, since it's more "thinner" a high-mileage engine filled with synthetic oil will more likely to develop leaks and you will more likely to hear lifters tapping noise at a start. Therefore, If you have low mileage or turbo engine and driving under heavy conditions such as high temperature, excessive load, long intervals without an oil change, etc., or simply want to provide extra protection for your engine, synthetic oil may be a good solution. But I don't think it's worth to use synthetic oil in high-mileage engines - thicker mineral oil will provide better protection as long as you change it regularly.
The best schedule to change engine oil is accordingly to owners manual instruction or mechanics advise.
Monday, April 9, 2007
The crumple zone concept
Crumple zones work by managing the crash energy so that it is absorbed within the frontal section of the vehicle, and by preventing intrusion into or deformation of the passenger cabin. This acts to ensure front seat occupants are properly protected against injury. In simplistic terms, this is done by strengthening the passenger cabin part of the body by using more reinforced beams and increasingly, higher strength steels.
A common misconception about crumple zones is that they reduce safety by allowing the vehicle's body to collapse, crushing the occupants. The marked improvement over the past two decades in high speed crash test results proves this is a misconception. Modern vehicles using what are commonly termed 'crumple zones' provide, on average, far superior protection for their occupants in severe tests than older models.
The only other general downside to crumple zones is that repair costs are higher in "fender bender" accidents.
A crash test illustrates how a crumple zone absorbs energy from a crash.
The 2004 Pininfarina Nido Experimental Safety Vehicle locates crumple zones inside the Survival Cell. Those interior crumple zones decelerate a sled-mounted survival cell.
A common misconception about crumple zones is that they reduce safety by allowing the vehicle's body to collapse, crushing the occupants. The marked improvement over the past two decades in high speed crash test results proves this is a misconception. Modern vehicles using what are commonly termed 'crumple zones' provide, on average, far superior protection for their occupants in severe tests than older models.
The only other general downside to crumple zones is that repair costs are higher in "fender bender" accidents.
A crash test illustrates how a crumple zone absorbs energy from a crash.
The 2004 Pininfarina Nido Experimental Safety Vehicle locates crumple zones inside the Survival Cell. Those interior crumple zones decelerate a sled-mounted survival cell.
Fuel and propulsion technologies
Most automobiles in use today are propelled by gasoline (also known as petrol) or diesel internal combustion engines but these are known to cause air pollution and are also blamed for contributing to climate change and global warming.[11] Increasing costs of oil-based fuels and tightening environmental laws and restrictions on greenhouse gas emissions are propelling work on alternative power systems for automobiles. Efforts to improve or replace these technologies include hybrid vehicles, electric vehicles and hydrogen vehicles.
Diesel
Diesel engined cars have long been popular in Europe with the first models being introduced in the 1930s by Mercedes Benz and Citroen. The main benefit of Diesel combustion engines is its 50% fuel burn efficiency compared with 27% [12] in the best gasoline engines. A down side of the diesel is the presence in the exhaust gases of fine soot particulates and manufacturers are now starting to fit filters to remove these. Many diesel powered cars can also run with little or no modifications on 100% pure biodiesel.
Gasoline
Gasoline engines however have the advantage over diesel in being lighter and able to work at higher rotational speeds and they are the usual choice for fitting in high performance sports cars. Continuous development of gasoline engines for over a hundred years has produced improvements in efficiency and reduced pollution. The carburettor was used on nearly all road car engines until the 1980s but it was long realised that better control of the fuel/air mixture could be achieved with fuel injection. Indirect fuel injection was first used in aircraft engines from 1909, in racing car engines from the 1930s and road cars from the late 1950s. [12] Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI) is now starting to appear in production vehicles such as the 2007 BMW MINI. Exhaust gases are also cleaned up by fitting a catalytic converter into the exhaust system. Clean air legislation in many of the car industries most important markets has made both catalysts and fuel injection virtually universal fittings. Most modern gasoline engines are also capable of running with up to 15% ethanol mixed into the gasoline fuel - older vehicles may have seals and hoses that can be harmed by ethanol. With a small amount of redesign, gasoline-powered vehicles can run on ethanol concentrations as high as 85%. 100% ethanol is used in some parts of the world but vehicles must be started on pure gasoline and switched over to ethanol once the engine is running. Most gasoline engined cars can also run on LPG with the addition of an LPG tank for fuel storage and carburation modifications to add an LPG mixer. LPG produces fewer toxic emissions and is a popular fuel for fork lift trucks that have to operate inside buildings.
Electric
The first electric cars were built in the late 1800s, but the building of battery powered vehicles that could rival internal combustion models had to wait for the introduction of modern semiconductor controls. Because they can deliver a high torque at low revolutions electric cars do not require such a complex drivetrain and transmission as internal combustion powered cars. Some are able to accelerate from 0-60 mph (96 km/hour) in 4.0 seconds with a top speed around 130 mph (210 km/h). They have a range of 250 miles (400 km) on the EPA highway cycle requiring 3-1/2 hours to completely charge. Equivalent fuel efficiency to internal combustion is not well defined but some press reports give it at around 135 mpg.
Steam
Steam power, usually using an oil or gas heated boiler, was also in use until the 1930s but had the major disadvantage of being unable to power the car until boiler pressure was available. It has the advantage of being able to produce very low emissions as the combustion process can be carefully controlled.
Gas Turbine
In the 1950s there was a brief interest in using gas turbine (jet) engines and several makers including Rover produced prototypes. In spite of the power units being very compact, high fuel consumption, severe delay in throttle response and lack of engine braking meant no cars reached production.
Rotary (Wankel) engines
Rotary Wankel engines were introduced into road cars by NSU with the Ro 80 and later were seen in several Mazda models. In spite of their impressive smoothness, poor reliability and fuel economy led to them largely disappearing. Mazda, however, has continued research on these engines and overcame most of the earlier problems.
Future developments
Much current research and development is centered on hybrid vehicles that use both electric power and internal combustion. Research into alternative forms of power also focus on developing fuel cells, Homogeneous Charge Compression Ignition (HCCI), stirling engines[13] and even using the stored energy of compressed air or liquid nitrogen.
Diesel
Diesel engined cars have long been popular in Europe with the first models being introduced in the 1930s by Mercedes Benz and Citroen. The main benefit of Diesel combustion engines is its 50% fuel burn efficiency compared with 27% [12] in the best gasoline engines. A down side of the diesel is the presence in the exhaust gases of fine soot particulates and manufacturers are now starting to fit filters to remove these. Many diesel powered cars can also run with little or no modifications on 100% pure biodiesel.
Gasoline
Gasoline engines however have the advantage over diesel in being lighter and able to work at higher rotational speeds and they are the usual choice for fitting in high performance sports cars. Continuous development of gasoline engines for over a hundred years has produced improvements in efficiency and reduced pollution. The carburettor was used on nearly all road car engines until the 1980s but it was long realised that better control of the fuel/air mixture could be achieved with fuel injection. Indirect fuel injection was first used in aircraft engines from 1909, in racing car engines from the 1930s and road cars from the late 1950s. [12] Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI) is now starting to appear in production vehicles such as the 2007 BMW MINI. Exhaust gases are also cleaned up by fitting a catalytic converter into the exhaust system. Clean air legislation in many of the car industries most important markets has made both catalysts and fuel injection virtually universal fittings. Most modern gasoline engines are also capable of running with up to 15% ethanol mixed into the gasoline fuel - older vehicles may have seals and hoses that can be harmed by ethanol. With a small amount of redesign, gasoline-powered vehicles can run on ethanol concentrations as high as 85%. 100% ethanol is used in some parts of the world but vehicles must be started on pure gasoline and switched over to ethanol once the engine is running. Most gasoline engined cars can also run on LPG with the addition of an LPG tank for fuel storage and carburation modifications to add an LPG mixer. LPG produces fewer toxic emissions and is a popular fuel for fork lift trucks that have to operate inside buildings.
Electric
The first electric cars were built in the late 1800s, but the building of battery powered vehicles that could rival internal combustion models had to wait for the introduction of modern semiconductor controls. Because they can deliver a high torque at low revolutions electric cars do not require such a complex drivetrain and transmission as internal combustion powered cars. Some are able to accelerate from 0-60 mph (96 km/hour) in 4.0 seconds with a top speed around 130 mph (210 km/h). They have a range of 250 miles (400 km) on the EPA highway cycle requiring 3-1/2 hours to completely charge. Equivalent fuel efficiency to internal combustion is not well defined but some press reports give it at around 135 mpg.
Steam
Steam power, usually using an oil or gas heated boiler, was also in use until the 1930s but had the major disadvantage of being unable to power the car until boiler pressure was available. It has the advantage of being able to produce very low emissions as the combustion process can be carefully controlled.
Gas Turbine
In the 1950s there was a brief interest in using gas turbine (jet) engines and several makers including Rover produced prototypes. In spite of the power units being very compact, high fuel consumption, severe delay in throttle response and lack of engine braking meant no cars reached production.
Rotary (Wankel) engines
Rotary Wankel engines were introduced into road cars by NSU with the Ro 80 and later were seen in several Mazda models. In spite of their impressive smoothness, poor reliability and fuel economy led to them largely disappearing. Mazda, however, has continued research on these engines and overcame most of the earlier problems.
Future developments
Much current research and development is centered on hybrid vehicles that use both electric power and internal combustion. Research into alternative forms of power also focus on developing fuel cells, Homogeneous Charge Compression Ignition (HCCI), stirling engines[13] and even using the stored energy of compressed air or liquid nitrogen.
Friday, April 6, 2007
Fuel Economy: Then and Now
Technologies have advanced in the past 15 years but that doesn't mean our fuel-efficiency has. A flashback to 1992 shows that fuel mileage has remained stagnant and even regressed in some cases.
One has to surmise that the advancement of computer-chipped electronics has had an impact on automotive ECUs. And it has. Today's engines are making more power from less displacement than ever before and doing so while generating minute traces of emissions.
Extrapolating that tuning success to fuel economy seems like a logical progression; but don't go all-in with this bet. Looking back 15 years reveals that the fuel mileage evolution has stagnated, even regressed to Neanderthal-esque standards in some cases.
The fuel mileage saga is spelled out in the MPG Super Stars chart. Five 1992-vintage cars outperform the best gasoline-powered offerings from 2007 while a sixth equals them in highway mileage.
The Geo Metro XFI and Honda Civic VX produce hybrid-challenging numbers. The Metro tops the chart at 53 city, 58 highway while the Civic VX is right on its heels at 48 city, 55 highway. Both Metro XFI and the Metro LSi (also offered as the Chevrolet Sprint in 1992) are small, lightweight vehicles motivated by a 1.0-liter, three-cylinder powerplant.
There is no doubt that these GM hatchbacks lack the creature comforts and build quality of modern econoboxes and at 49 horsepower, they are not inspiring performers. Conversely, the Civic VX was a new, fresh-sheet car in 1992 with highly rated ergonomics, excellent build quality and more than twice the pep of the XFI at 102 horsepower. Despite their shortcomings for the environmentally conscious, these misers are indeed super stars.
MPG Super Stars [city/hwy]
1992
2007
Geo Metro XFI ('93)
53 / 58
Toyota Yaris
34 / 40
Honda Civic VX
48 / 55
MINI Cooper
32 / 40
Geo Metro LSI
46 / 50
Suzuki Swift
39 / 43
Ford Festiva
35 / 42
Dodge Colt ('93)
32 / 40
Under the banner of, "the more things change the more they stay the same," we present the Super Suckers. The worst fuel mileage vehicles on the road have evolved little in the last decade and a half. The Lamborghini Diablo of 1993 and the present day Lamborghini Murcielago both have V12 power and the same woeful 9 city, 14 highway performance.
The Vector W8 was a low-volume specialty car that did not stay in the market very long but it did take the title of least fuel efficient. Granted buyers of these rides care little about their daily fuel consumption and these supercars are not driven all that much but you would expect Lamborghini could at least nudge the needle in right direction 15 years later.
MPG Super Suckers [city/hwy]
1992
2007
Vector W8
7 / 11
Lamborghini Murcielago ('06)
9 / 14
Lamborghini Diablo
9 / 14
Bentley Arnage
10 / 15
Mercedes-Benz 600SEL
11 / 15
Bentley Azure*
11 / 16
The meatiest comparisons focus on the same make and model of car in 1992 and 15 years later in 2007. The most shocking of the apples-to-apples showdowns is the Honda Civic. In the last 15 years the Civic has given up ground in a big, nearly unimaginable way; dropping 12 MPG city and 8 MPG highway. How is this possible? The four-cylinder engine has grown from 1.5-liters in '92 to 1.8-liters in 2007. But come on, engine displacement is not the issue, overall displacement, read curb weight, is.
Just as Americans have embraced obesity, the lowly Civic has gone from 2094 pounds in 1992 CX hatchback trim to 2751 pounds in 2007 sedan trim; the additional 657 pounds of girth in the '07 version will certainly make efficiency numbers plummet. Calculating a sedan versus sedan comparison reveals the 1992 edition to be 432 pounds lighter on the scales.
It should be noted that there were a wide variety of Civics offered in '92. In addition to the aforementioned VX, seven other Civic models delivered between 27 and 42 mpg in the city and 34 and 48 mpg on the highway.
The Nissan Sentra is even-up when looking at city mileage and minus three in highway performance. The 1992 car runs a 110-horsepower 1.6-liter while the 2007 version relies on a 140-horsepower 2.0-liter engine. And the current edition needs that thrust since it tips the scales 586 pounds heavier than its 1992 brethren.
The remainder of the comparisons, even the pickup trucks, show stagnation or mediocre improvement in fuel economy over the years. The Chevy C1500 has evolved into the present-day Chevrolet Silverado 1500.
15-Year Flashback, Same Model Comparison [city/hwy]
Vehicle
1992
2007
Difference
Honda Civic
42 / 48
30 / 40
-12 / -8
Honda Accord
24 / 30
26 / 34
+2 / +4
Nissan Sentra
29 / 39
29 / 36
0 / -3
Toyota Corolla
31 / 35
32 / 41
+1 / +6
Toyota Camry
22 / 29
24 / 34
+2 / +5
Chevrolet Corvette
17 / 25
18 / 28
+1 / +3
Ford Explorer 4WD
15 / 19
15 / 20
0 / +1
Vehicle
1992
2007
Difference
Dodge Dakota 4WD V8
5.2-L 13/17
4.7-L 15/20
+2 / +1
Chevrolet C1500 2WD V8
5.0-L 15/20
5.3-L 16/21
+1 / -1
5.7-L 14/18
6.0-L 14/19
0 / +1
With all the drum beating about oil reliance and fuel conservation as America watched crude prices soar past $72 a barrel in April, 2006 it is a bit sobering to see how little progress has been made in extending miles per gallon. There are variables at work against fuel economy today; increasing engine sizes and the expanding girth of the vehicles that are bigger and weighed down with more commuter-friendly accoutrements as well as advanced safety equipment. It is worth mentioning that equipment was added to meet buyer demand as well as government regulations. Also, the driving experience in a Metro XPI cannot compare in any way to that in a Toyota Yaris.
But in many ways the Yaris and its counterparts in the emerging B-Segment of vehicles are throwbacks to the misers of the early '90s. The B-Segment consists of the Yaris, Nissan Versa, Scion xA and xB, Honda Fit and Suzuki SX4. The all-new Japanese market Mazda Demio that will be rebadged as the Mazda2 for U.S. consumption and delivered our shores in 2008 may join the micro-car party. B-Segment cars are fuel-efficient, clean-burning and defy their diminutive proportions when comes to accommodating cargo and people.
If the main factor is fuel efficiency, the truth is things haven't come so far since '92 when Clint Eastwood's "Unforgiven" took the best picture Oscar and Eric Clapton won five Grammy Awards for his "Unplugged" album. With the government mandating higher CAFE standards, especially for trucks and SUVs, one has to think there are some frayed nerve endings in the product planning departments of all the automakers right about now. Whatever unfolds and whatever one's personal preference may be when it comes to fuel efficiency, knowing the history of the beast will ensure tomorrow's buyer makes an informed decision.
* indicates 2007 model year information is not yet available
From 1992 to 2005 Evan Griffey was an editor of Turbo & High Tech Performance magazine, a pioneering force in the creation of the import/sport compact tuning industry. Evan has vast experience in the technical, aftermarket quadrant of the automotive realm as well as the OE side where he has test driven scores of cars and trucks. Evan has covered drag racing, Bonneville Speed Week, drifting, road racing, car shows and shot numerous covers and features while at Turbo magazine. Today Evan is a freelance writer working for Import Tuner, Sport Compact Car, Honda Tuning, Turbo & High Tech Performance, Car Audio and Siphon magazines.
Note : Info through MSN Autos' New-Car Buying Service
One has to surmise that the advancement of computer-chipped electronics has had an impact on automotive ECUs. And it has. Today's engines are making more power from less displacement than ever before and doing so while generating minute traces of emissions.
Extrapolating that tuning success to fuel economy seems like a logical progression; but don't go all-in with this bet. Looking back 15 years reveals that the fuel mileage evolution has stagnated, even regressed to Neanderthal-esque standards in some cases.
The fuel mileage saga is spelled out in the MPG Super Stars chart. Five 1992-vintage cars outperform the best gasoline-powered offerings from 2007 while a sixth equals them in highway mileage.
The Geo Metro XFI and Honda Civic VX produce hybrid-challenging numbers. The Metro tops the chart at 53 city, 58 highway while the Civic VX is right on its heels at 48 city, 55 highway. Both Metro XFI and the Metro LSi (also offered as the Chevrolet Sprint in 1992) are small, lightweight vehicles motivated by a 1.0-liter, three-cylinder powerplant.
There is no doubt that these GM hatchbacks lack the creature comforts and build quality of modern econoboxes and at 49 horsepower, they are not inspiring performers. Conversely, the Civic VX was a new, fresh-sheet car in 1992 with highly rated ergonomics, excellent build quality and more than twice the pep of the XFI at 102 horsepower. Despite their shortcomings for the environmentally conscious, these misers are indeed super stars.
MPG Super Stars [city/hwy]
1992
2007
Geo Metro XFI ('93)
53 / 58
Toyota Yaris
34 / 40
Honda Civic VX
48 / 55
MINI Cooper
32 / 40
Geo Metro LSI
46 / 50
Suzuki Swift
39 / 43
Ford Festiva
35 / 42
Dodge Colt ('93)
32 / 40
Under the banner of, "the more things change the more they stay the same," we present the Super Suckers. The worst fuel mileage vehicles on the road have evolved little in the last decade and a half. The Lamborghini Diablo of 1993 and the present day Lamborghini Murcielago both have V12 power and the same woeful 9 city, 14 highway performance.
The Vector W8 was a low-volume specialty car that did not stay in the market very long but it did take the title of least fuel efficient. Granted buyers of these rides care little about their daily fuel consumption and these supercars are not driven all that much but you would expect Lamborghini could at least nudge the needle in right direction 15 years later.
MPG Super Suckers [city/hwy]
1992
2007
Vector W8
7 / 11
Lamborghini Murcielago ('06)
9 / 14
Lamborghini Diablo
9 / 14
Bentley Arnage
10 / 15
Mercedes-Benz 600SEL
11 / 15
Bentley Azure*
11 / 16
The meatiest comparisons focus on the same make and model of car in 1992 and 15 years later in 2007. The most shocking of the apples-to-apples showdowns is the Honda Civic. In the last 15 years the Civic has given up ground in a big, nearly unimaginable way; dropping 12 MPG city and 8 MPG highway. How is this possible? The four-cylinder engine has grown from 1.5-liters in '92 to 1.8-liters in 2007. But come on, engine displacement is not the issue, overall displacement, read curb weight, is.
Just as Americans have embraced obesity, the lowly Civic has gone from 2094 pounds in 1992 CX hatchback trim to 2751 pounds in 2007 sedan trim; the additional 657 pounds of girth in the '07 version will certainly make efficiency numbers plummet. Calculating a sedan versus sedan comparison reveals the 1992 edition to be 432 pounds lighter on the scales.
It should be noted that there were a wide variety of Civics offered in '92. In addition to the aforementioned VX, seven other Civic models delivered between 27 and 42 mpg in the city and 34 and 48 mpg on the highway.
The Nissan Sentra is even-up when looking at city mileage and minus three in highway performance. The 1992 car runs a 110-horsepower 1.6-liter while the 2007 version relies on a 140-horsepower 2.0-liter engine. And the current edition needs that thrust since it tips the scales 586 pounds heavier than its 1992 brethren.
The remainder of the comparisons, even the pickup trucks, show stagnation or mediocre improvement in fuel economy over the years. The Chevy C1500 has evolved into the present-day Chevrolet Silverado 1500.
15-Year Flashback, Same Model Comparison [city/hwy]
Vehicle
1992
2007
Difference
Honda Civic
42 / 48
30 / 40
-12 / -8
Honda Accord
24 / 30
26 / 34
+2 / +4
Nissan Sentra
29 / 39
29 / 36
0 / -3
Toyota Corolla
31 / 35
32 / 41
+1 / +6
Toyota Camry
22 / 29
24 / 34
+2 / +5
Chevrolet Corvette
17 / 25
18 / 28
+1 / +3
Ford Explorer 4WD
15 / 19
15 / 20
0 / +1
Vehicle
1992
2007
Difference
Dodge Dakota 4WD V8
5.2-L 13/17
4.7-L 15/20
+2 / +1
Chevrolet C1500 2WD V8
5.0-L 15/20
5.3-L 16/21
+1 / -1
5.7-L 14/18
6.0-L 14/19
0 / +1
With all the drum beating about oil reliance and fuel conservation as America watched crude prices soar past $72 a barrel in April, 2006 it is a bit sobering to see how little progress has been made in extending miles per gallon. There are variables at work against fuel economy today; increasing engine sizes and the expanding girth of the vehicles that are bigger and weighed down with more commuter-friendly accoutrements as well as advanced safety equipment. It is worth mentioning that equipment was added to meet buyer demand as well as government regulations. Also, the driving experience in a Metro XPI cannot compare in any way to that in a Toyota Yaris.
But in many ways the Yaris and its counterparts in the emerging B-Segment of vehicles are throwbacks to the misers of the early '90s. The B-Segment consists of the Yaris, Nissan Versa, Scion xA and xB, Honda Fit and Suzuki SX4. The all-new Japanese market Mazda Demio that will be rebadged as the Mazda2 for U.S. consumption and delivered our shores in 2008 may join the micro-car party. B-Segment cars are fuel-efficient, clean-burning and defy their diminutive proportions when comes to accommodating cargo and people.
If the main factor is fuel efficiency, the truth is things haven't come so far since '92 when Clint Eastwood's "Unforgiven" took the best picture Oscar and Eric Clapton won five Grammy Awards for his "Unplugged" album. With the government mandating higher CAFE standards, especially for trucks and SUVs, one has to think there are some frayed nerve endings in the product planning departments of all the automakers right about now. Whatever unfolds and whatever one's personal preference may be when it comes to fuel efficiency, knowing the history of the beast will ensure tomorrow's buyer makes an informed decision.
* indicates 2007 model year information is not yet available
From 1992 to 2005 Evan Griffey was an editor of Turbo & High Tech Performance magazine, a pioneering force in the creation of the import/sport compact tuning industry. Evan has vast experience in the technical, aftermarket quadrant of the automotive realm as well as the OE side where he has test driven scores of cars and trucks. Evan has covered drag racing, Bonneville Speed Week, drifting, road racing, car shows and shot numerous covers and features while at Turbo magazine. Today Evan is a freelance writer working for Import Tuner, Sport Compact Car, Honda Tuning, Turbo & High Tech Performance, Car Audio and Siphon magazines.
Note : Info through MSN Autos' New-Car Buying Service
How to End Your Lease Early
When leasing a vehicle, the buyer is agreeing to make regular payments, follow a scheduled maintenance plan, and keep the vehicle for the duration of the contract. A popular misconception is that it is impossible to end a lease early. In truth, all leases can be terminated early. However, since lease agreements are not designed to be broken, substantial penalties and fees are usually associated with early termination. It is, in the end, a question of cost.
In many cases, from unexpected lifestyle changes to just boredom with the vehicle, buyers may consider ending their automotive lease before the end of the term. With appropriate vehicle preparation and picking the right time to end the lease, it may be possible to terminate a lease early and do so with very little penalty.
Prepare your vehicle
Wash and detail. Whether you intend to sell your vehicle or return it to the leasing company, it needs to appear clean and maintained. At a minimum, completely wash the exterior and vacuum the interior. At best, pay to have the vehicle professionally detailed.
Check the tires. Tires show obvious wear and tear. Make sure the tires have plenty of tread remaining. If the tread is worn or uneven (check your lease contract for minimal acceptable tread depths), purchase new tires at a local tire shop before you return the vehicle to the dealership or attempt to sell it.
Take pictures. Once the vehicle is clean, take a few good photographs of the interior, exterior, engine, and odometer (for mileage). You may also want to take close-up pictures of the tire tread. You will need the pictures if you are selling the vehicle, and they will also be very helpful if the condition or mileage of your lease return is ever questioned.
What are my options to end my lease early?
Return the vehicle to the dealership. This is a traditional lease termination, and it is an expensive option. When you return the vehicle to the dealership, you will be required to pay all penalties. In some cases, you may be required to make all outstanding payments, and pay additional penalties on top of any other fees. This should be a last-resort option.
Trade in your vehicle for another vehicle. It may be possible to lease another vehicle at the same dealership. The penalties and fees from your original lease will be rolled in (included) with the new vehicle contract, making your payments higher. This option is also expensive, but it allows you to absorb the penalties from the old lease over an extended period.
Find someone to take over your lease. You may be able to find a family member, friend, or co-worker to assume the balance of your lease payments. Several online companies offer this type of service for customers looking to sell their leases. Each leasing company has its own set of requirements, which often include a credit check and transfer fees, and there may be out-of-state restrictions to consider. Use caution when exercising this option: though you are no longer responsible for monthly payments, many leasing companies hold the original lessee liable in the event of a default.
Purchase the vehicle from the leasing company. Every lease has a buyout or payoff. This is the amount due to the leasing company if you wish to purchase the vehicle outright at any point during the lease. Depending on the resale value of the vehicle, the payoff may be at or above market value, potentially requiring you to pay more for the vehicle than it is actually worth.
Sell the vehicle. Using the payoff amount from the leasing company as a guide, sell the vehicle to another private party. Again, if your vehicle has a high payoff it may be very difficult to sell without incurring a loss. Even if you are forced to take a financial loss, it may be a less expensive option than continuing the outstanding monthly payments on the lease contract. Selling the vehicle is also an excellent option if you want to avoid penalties for excess wear and tear and having exceeded the allocated lease mileage.
In many cases, from unexpected lifestyle changes to just boredom with the vehicle, buyers may consider ending their automotive lease before the end of the term. With appropriate vehicle preparation and picking the right time to end the lease, it may be possible to terminate a lease early and do so with very little penalty.
Prepare your vehicle
Wash and detail. Whether you intend to sell your vehicle or return it to the leasing company, it needs to appear clean and maintained. At a minimum, completely wash the exterior and vacuum the interior. At best, pay to have the vehicle professionally detailed.
Check the tires. Tires show obvious wear and tear. Make sure the tires have plenty of tread remaining. If the tread is worn or uneven (check your lease contract for minimal acceptable tread depths), purchase new tires at a local tire shop before you return the vehicle to the dealership or attempt to sell it.
Take pictures. Once the vehicle is clean, take a few good photographs of the interior, exterior, engine, and odometer (for mileage). You may also want to take close-up pictures of the tire tread. You will need the pictures if you are selling the vehicle, and they will also be very helpful if the condition or mileage of your lease return is ever questioned.
What are my options to end my lease early?
Return the vehicle to the dealership. This is a traditional lease termination, and it is an expensive option. When you return the vehicle to the dealership, you will be required to pay all penalties. In some cases, you may be required to make all outstanding payments, and pay additional penalties on top of any other fees. This should be a last-resort option.
Trade in your vehicle for another vehicle. It may be possible to lease another vehicle at the same dealership. The penalties and fees from your original lease will be rolled in (included) with the new vehicle contract, making your payments higher. This option is also expensive, but it allows you to absorb the penalties from the old lease over an extended period.
Find someone to take over your lease. You may be able to find a family member, friend, or co-worker to assume the balance of your lease payments. Several online companies offer this type of service for customers looking to sell their leases. Each leasing company has its own set of requirements, which often include a credit check and transfer fees, and there may be out-of-state restrictions to consider. Use caution when exercising this option: though you are no longer responsible for monthly payments, many leasing companies hold the original lessee liable in the event of a default.
Purchase the vehicle from the leasing company. Every lease has a buyout or payoff. This is the amount due to the leasing company if you wish to purchase the vehicle outright at any point during the lease. Depending on the resale value of the vehicle, the payoff may be at or above market value, potentially requiring you to pay more for the vehicle than it is actually worth.
Sell the vehicle. Using the payoff amount from the leasing company as a guide, sell the vehicle to another private party. Again, if your vehicle has a high payoff it may be very difficult to sell without incurring a loss. Even if you are forced to take a financial loss, it may be a less expensive option than continuing the outstanding monthly payments on the lease contract. Selling the vehicle is also an excellent option if you want to avoid penalties for excess wear and tear and having exceeded the allocated lease mileage.
CAR : Understanding the lease payment
The first question many people ask when leasing a vehicle is, "How much is my monthly payment going to be?” But there’s more to it than that.
What really needs to be assessed is the total amount being charged over the lease term including fees, taxes, security deposits, and any lease-end payments. Often, there are fees associated with the number of miles driven and the condition of the vehicle at lease end.
Leasing can be done through a variety of companies, including captive lessors (those associated with vehicle manufacturers), banks, credit unions, and independent leasing companies. Finance companies that are associated with vehicle manufacturers often subsidize leases in order to make their models more financially attractive.
Understanding the lease payment
All monthly lease payments are comprised of two basic elements, a depreciation fee and a rental fee. When you lease a vehicle, you are paying for both the cost to operate the vehicle as well as an amount that represents the vehicle's depreciation while it is in your possession. To determine your depreciation component, the lessor (the company leasing the vehicle to you) looks at the cost of the vehicle, including fees and any negative equity you have, as well as destination and other charges. This amount is called the adjusted capitalization cost or adjusted cap cost.
The adjusted cap cost is subtracted from the amount that the vehicle is estimated to be worth at the end of the lease period (this amount is called the residual value). This amount is then divided by the number of payments you will make during your lease period. The depreciation component is usually the largest portion of your monthly lease payment.
To arrive at the rental portion of your lease payment, simply add the adjusted cap cost and the residual value, which equals the lease balance multiplier. Then multiply this number by the money factor, which is similar to the interest rate on a loan. This figure represents the money component of the lease—the amount required to basically rent the vehicle for an agreed upon length of time.
While all lease payments include these two components, taxes can also be rolled into the monthly payment if they are not paid up front. Be sure to find out what the taxes are for the vehicle you are leasing, including the amount of luxury tax, if applicable.
When you are negotiating the deal, be sure to think about it in terms of the total financial cost, not only your monthly payment cost. Many consumers forget to include items such as security deposits, down payments, dealer prep fees, or lease-end charges, all of which can substantially increase the total cost of the lease.
Leasing Tips
Here are some tips to consider before leasing a new vehicle:
• Research your options thoroughly. Remember, it is not a requirement to use a captive lessor (those associated with a vehicle manufacturer) to lease any vehicle, so check with your bank, credit union or an independent company to ensure you are getting the ideal arrangement for your particular circumstances.
• Choose a vehicle with a high residual value. The residual value is the amount that the vehicle is estimated to be worth at the end of the lease, assuming it does not have excessive wear and tear. By choosing a vehicle with a high residual value, your payments are likely to be lower than they would be if the residual value was lower.
• Stay within the annual mileage limits. All lease contracts have limits on the amount of miles the vehicle can be driven during the lease term. Typically, there is a per-mile charge for vehicles that exceed the mileage agreed upon in the lease contract. If you think you will drive over the mileage limit of your contract, ask about purchasing extra miles up front at a discounted rate, or better yet, negotiate a lease that includes higher mileage limits.
• Don’t terminate the lease early. In addition to penalties charged for early termination, lessees who turn their vehicles in early may find they owe more money for this privilege. This is because the depreciation rate has been calculated for the term of the lease, so the lessor recalculates the depreciation, which results in an additional charge to you.
• Read the fine print. There can be many hidden costs written into a lease, such as dealer fees for additional services and lease-end payments. Read your lease contract carefully and make sure that the numbers (adjusted cap cost, residual value, and monthly payment) are all included and are the terms that you agreed to.
You’re a good candidate for leasing if…• You enjoy driving a brand new vehicle every few years• You don’t have much money for a down payment• You drive less than 15,000 miles annually• You’d like to drive a more expensive car than you could otherwise afford to buy under traditional financing terms• You take proper care of your car, servicing and washing it regularly
What really needs to be assessed is the total amount being charged over the lease term including fees, taxes, security deposits, and any lease-end payments. Often, there are fees associated with the number of miles driven and the condition of the vehicle at lease end.
Leasing can be done through a variety of companies, including captive lessors (those associated with vehicle manufacturers), banks, credit unions, and independent leasing companies. Finance companies that are associated with vehicle manufacturers often subsidize leases in order to make their models more financially attractive.
Understanding the lease payment
All monthly lease payments are comprised of two basic elements, a depreciation fee and a rental fee. When you lease a vehicle, you are paying for both the cost to operate the vehicle as well as an amount that represents the vehicle's depreciation while it is in your possession. To determine your depreciation component, the lessor (the company leasing the vehicle to you) looks at the cost of the vehicle, including fees and any negative equity you have, as well as destination and other charges. This amount is called the adjusted capitalization cost or adjusted cap cost.
The adjusted cap cost is subtracted from the amount that the vehicle is estimated to be worth at the end of the lease period (this amount is called the residual value). This amount is then divided by the number of payments you will make during your lease period. The depreciation component is usually the largest portion of your monthly lease payment.
To arrive at the rental portion of your lease payment, simply add the adjusted cap cost and the residual value, which equals the lease balance multiplier. Then multiply this number by the money factor, which is similar to the interest rate on a loan. This figure represents the money component of the lease—the amount required to basically rent the vehicle for an agreed upon length of time.
While all lease payments include these two components, taxes can also be rolled into the monthly payment if they are not paid up front. Be sure to find out what the taxes are for the vehicle you are leasing, including the amount of luxury tax, if applicable.
When you are negotiating the deal, be sure to think about it in terms of the total financial cost, not only your monthly payment cost. Many consumers forget to include items such as security deposits, down payments, dealer prep fees, or lease-end charges, all of which can substantially increase the total cost of the lease.
Leasing Tips
Here are some tips to consider before leasing a new vehicle:
• Research your options thoroughly. Remember, it is not a requirement to use a captive lessor (those associated with a vehicle manufacturer) to lease any vehicle, so check with your bank, credit union or an independent company to ensure you are getting the ideal arrangement for your particular circumstances.
• Choose a vehicle with a high residual value. The residual value is the amount that the vehicle is estimated to be worth at the end of the lease, assuming it does not have excessive wear and tear. By choosing a vehicle with a high residual value, your payments are likely to be lower than they would be if the residual value was lower.
• Stay within the annual mileage limits. All lease contracts have limits on the amount of miles the vehicle can be driven during the lease term. Typically, there is a per-mile charge for vehicles that exceed the mileage agreed upon in the lease contract. If you think you will drive over the mileage limit of your contract, ask about purchasing extra miles up front at a discounted rate, or better yet, negotiate a lease that includes higher mileage limits.
• Don’t terminate the lease early. In addition to penalties charged for early termination, lessees who turn their vehicles in early may find they owe more money for this privilege. This is because the depreciation rate has been calculated for the term of the lease, so the lessor recalculates the depreciation, which results in an additional charge to you.
• Read the fine print. There can be many hidden costs written into a lease, such as dealer fees for additional services and lease-end payments. Read your lease contract carefully and make sure that the numbers (adjusted cap cost, residual value, and monthly payment) are all included and are the terms that you agreed to.
You’re a good candidate for leasing if…• You enjoy driving a brand new vehicle every few years• You don’t have much money for a down payment• You drive less than 15,000 miles annually• You’d like to drive a more expensive car than you could otherwise afford to buy under traditional financing terms• You take proper care of your car, servicing and washing it regularly
Buying a New Car
Each year, millions of consumers venture into automotive showrooms in search of a new vehicle. As dealerships focus on improving customer satisfaction, they have become more consumer-oriented in an effort to make the buying process more enjoyable and informative.
While today’s showrooms are brighter and more inviting, the buying process has changed very little in decades. The transaction process is less confusing when you understand the roles of key individuals at the dealership, and some basic terminology used during the sales process.
Key Individuals at the Dealership:
Salesperson—As a customer, your primary interaction will most likely be with a Salesperson. As an expert on the operation and features of the vehicle, a Salesperson will accompany you during the test drive, negotiate with you during the sale, and assist the Finance Manager with the required paperwork. Customer service is their goal, so ask the Salesperson if you have any questions during or after the sales process.
Sales Manager—The role of the Sales Manager is to oversee all new- and used-vehicle sales at the dealership. The Sales Manager has the authority to adjust pricing and make all sales-related decisions. During the sales process, the Salesperson will often consult with their Sales Manager many times as the terms of the transaction are negotiated. Larger dealerships will have many Sales Managers, each having a team of Salespeople reporting to them.
Finance Manager—The Finance Manager is responsible for new- and used-vehicle financing, warranty sales, and sales of aftermarket products. An expert in finance for automotive sales and leasing, the Finance Manager often has business relationships with several banks and leasing companies, which gives them the ability to offer numerous financing options. After the vehicle negotiation is complete, the Finance Manager will draft the sales or leasing contract.
Common Terms:
Down Payment—The amount of money paid at the beginning of the sales transaction is often called the Down Payment. Many times, especially in advertising, it is referred to as “total money out of pocket” or “total drive-off.” As the Down Payment increases, the loan or lease amount will decrease, reducing monthly payments and interest charges.
Monthly Payment—The amount due each month on an installment loan is called the monthly payment. On a lease, the monthly payment will include the base lease amount as well as the sales tax for the full price of the vehicle.
APR—The Annual Percentage Rate (APR) refers to the interest rate on the vehicle loan. A lower APR means the monthly payments and the total cost of the vehicle will be lower.
Factory-to-Dealer Incentives—These financial incentives are offered from the factory (manufacturer) to the dealer as a reward or bonus to sell more vehicles. The dealership is not obligated to share or provide this money to the customer, but many choose to offer this incentive to potential buyers.
Factory-to-Consumer Incentives—These financial incentives are offered from the factory (manufacturer) directly to the customer. The incentive is often offered as cash, special financing rates, or other tangible benefits.
Special Financing—This type of offer, often from the manufacturer or a preferred bank, will include a very low interest rate or extended terms for the loan. Special Financing offers may be given in lieu of other incentives. Sometimes these offers require that you finance your vehicle through the manufacturer’s captive finance company (i.e., GMAC or Ford Credit).
Trade-In—After carefully inspecting the vehicle to be traded in, the dealership will assign it a monetary value. This value, which can be negotiated, may be used to pay off the existing vehicle loan, applied as a down payment on the new-vehicle purchase, or kept by the consumer.
Trade-In Value (Wholesale Value) —This is the value assigned to the vehicle by an auction house. As the wholesale value must allow room for other costs (such as vehicle re-conditioning), it is often thousands of dollars less than the retail value of the vehicle to a private party.
Payoff—An installment loan with monthly payments will have a balance, or payoff, which must be satisfied before the loan is considered closed. The loan payoff will generally decrease each month a payment is made.
Rebate—This is another name for factory-to-consumer incentives. Unlike financing incentives, which include special interest rates, Rebates are often cash incentives that may be used toward the down payment, to pay off a previous loan, or taken as cash by the customer.
Tax and License Fee—These are standard sales tax and licensing fees that are payable to the federal government and to the state Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) or similar agency.
Documentation Fee—A sales or lease transaction requires extensive paperwork. It is common for a dealership to charge a documentation fee to process the transaction through their business office.
While today’s showrooms are brighter and more inviting, the buying process has changed very little in decades. The transaction process is less confusing when you understand the roles of key individuals at the dealership, and some basic terminology used during the sales process.
Key Individuals at the Dealership:
Salesperson—As a customer, your primary interaction will most likely be with a Salesperson. As an expert on the operation and features of the vehicle, a Salesperson will accompany you during the test drive, negotiate with you during the sale, and assist the Finance Manager with the required paperwork. Customer service is their goal, so ask the Salesperson if you have any questions during or after the sales process.
Sales Manager—The role of the Sales Manager is to oversee all new- and used-vehicle sales at the dealership. The Sales Manager has the authority to adjust pricing and make all sales-related decisions. During the sales process, the Salesperson will often consult with their Sales Manager many times as the terms of the transaction are negotiated. Larger dealerships will have many Sales Managers, each having a team of Salespeople reporting to them.
Finance Manager—The Finance Manager is responsible for new- and used-vehicle financing, warranty sales, and sales of aftermarket products. An expert in finance for automotive sales and leasing, the Finance Manager often has business relationships with several banks and leasing companies, which gives them the ability to offer numerous financing options. After the vehicle negotiation is complete, the Finance Manager will draft the sales or leasing contract.
Common Terms:
Down Payment—The amount of money paid at the beginning of the sales transaction is often called the Down Payment. Many times, especially in advertising, it is referred to as “total money out of pocket” or “total drive-off.” As the Down Payment increases, the loan or lease amount will decrease, reducing monthly payments and interest charges.
Monthly Payment—The amount due each month on an installment loan is called the monthly payment. On a lease, the monthly payment will include the base lease amount as well as the sales tax for the full price of the vehicle.
APR—The Annual Percentage Rate (APR) refers to the interest rate on the vehicle loan. A lower APR means the monthly payments and the total cost of the vehicle will be lower.
Factory-to-Dealer Incentives—These financial incentives are offered from the factory (manufacturer) to the dealer as a reward or bonus to sell more vehicles. The dealership is not obligated to share or provide this money to the customer, but many choose to offer this incentive to potential buyers.
Factory-to-Consumer Incentives—These financial incentives are offered from the factory (manufacturer) directly to the customer. The incentive is often offered as cash, special financing rates, or other tangible benefits.
Special Financing—This type of offer, often from the manufacturer or a preferred bank, will include a very low interest rate or extended terms for the loan. Special Financing offers may be given in lieu of other incentives. Sometimes these offers require that you finance your vehicle through the manufacturer’s captive finance company (i.e., GMAC or Ford Credit).
Trade-In—After carefully inspecting the vehicle to be traded in, the dealership will assign it a monetary value. This value, which can be negotiated, may be used to pay off the existing vehicle loan, applied as a down payment on the new-vehicle purchase, or kept by the consumer.
Trade-In Value (Wholesale Value) —This is the value assigned to the vehicle by an auction house. As the wholesale value must allow room for other costs (such as vehicle re-conditioning), it is often thousands of dollars less than the retail value of the vehicle to a private party.
Payoff—An installment loan with monthly payments will have a balance, or payoff, which must be satisfied before the loan is considered closed. The loan payoff will generally decrease each month a payment is made.
Rebate—This is another name for factory-to-consumer incentives. Unlike financing incentives, which include special interest rates, Rebates are often cash incentives that may be used toward the down payment, to pay off a previous loan, or taken as cash by the customer.
Tax and License Fee—These are standard sales tax and licensing fees that are payable to the federal government and to the state Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) or similar agency.
Documentation Fee—A sales or lease transaction requires extensive paperwork. It is common for a dealership to charge a documentation fee to process the transaction through their business office.
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